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1. Add the sides by first cementing the side of an exterior side to the edge of the housing
base. Use a square to hold the pieces perpendicular and let it set. Repeat with
the other exterior side. click on the pictures for
larger images
my note: I disassembled my machinist's square and used a part of
it to hold the exterior side perpendicular, and like much of my life, it shows I'm off about
a quarter of a bubble.
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2. Complete the sides by secondly cementing the side and edge of an interior side to inside of
the joint formed by the exterior side and the housing base. Gently clamp the interior and
exterior sides together. Repeat with the other interior side and let them set.
my notes: Spring clothes pins worked well as inexpensive clamps.
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3. Add the top spacer by cementing it between the exterior sides and atop the interior sides.
Make sure the assembly is square, then clamp it with a rubber band and let it set.
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4. Create the axle shaft holes location by scribing marks 0.225 inches from the top and end of each
exterior side. With a pin vise and very small drill, hand drill pilot holes perpendicular
through the sides at the intersection of the scribed marks. Again with a pin vise and 3/32-in.
drill, slowly drill through each side.
my notes: I began with a no. 69 (0.029-in. dia.) drill, and progressed
to larger sizes, and finally drilled through both sides with a 3/32-in. dia. drill, as shown. The
final drilling made sure the axle holes were aligned so as to accept the axle.
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5. If the drive module is to be mounted vertically on the truck chassis, then cement the mounting
flanges to the top of the top spacer and bottom of the housing base. Clamp with a rubber band
and allow it to set.
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6. If desired, paint the assembled motor housing and set it aside to dry.
my notes: I painted the housing primer gray.
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7. Ever so slightly, enlarge the axle holes to permit the axle to turn freely. Do not make
the holes overly large.
my notes: I again used a 3/32 drill, this time as a reamer, to enlarge the
axle holes.
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